Shoe and method of making the same



J. ABRAMOWI'IZ.

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME.

APPLICATION FiLED DEC 27.1918.

1921., 2 SHEETS-SHEET I.

Patented Jan. 11

J. ABRAMOWITZ SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME.

APPLICATION FILED DEC .27. 1915.

1,365,072. I Patented Jan. 11,1921.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

UNITED, STATES JOSEPH ABRAMOWITZ, OF NORTH VENICE, ILLINOIS.

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME.

Specification of Letters Patent. Patented Jan. 1 1, 1921.

Application filed December 27, 1918. Serial No. 268,487.

same, the objects of my present invention being to provide an attractive, neat-fitting,

and comfortable shoe which may be manufactured and produced with facility and economy and at low, reduced cost, and to provide for the manufacture thereof a simple method which eliminates many of the more or'less expensive, time-consuming, and skilled steps now generally involved in the manufacture of shoes.

With the above and other objects in view, my present invention resides in the novel form, construction, arrangement, and combination of shoe-parts and their shaping and assemblage, hereinafter described and afterward pointed out in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings,

Figure 1 is a plan of a leather-blank from which a shoe-upper and insole is made in accordance with my invention;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of a shoe-insole and upper of Blucher pattern, formed from the blank shown in Fig. 1 and embodying my invention;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of a complete shoe of Blucher pattern constructed in accordance with and embodying my invention;

Fig. 4 is a longitudinal sectional view of the complete shoe shown in Fig. 3;

Fig. 5 is a transverse sectional view of the same on approximately the line 55, Fig. 4:;

Fig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. 2 of a shoe-insole and closed-vamp upper; and

Fig. 7 is a view similar to Fig. 3 of a shoe of the closed vamp pattern, embodying my invention.

Referring to the said drawings in which like reference characters refer to like parts throughout the several views, 1 indicates a single piece or section of leather or other suitable material out of which the insole and upper or upper-sides of the shoe is formed. As shown in Fig. 1 of the drawings, such section or blank 1 is for a shoe having an upper of only half-shoe height,

and for the reason only that thereis a materlal economy in cutting such size upper, I make this my preferred form, but in no sense wish to be limited to such form, as obviously an upper of full shoe-height would include merely an extension at the sides and heel of the blank.

Such blanks are selected according to weight and style of shoe, that is graded as to weight of shoe and sized for different sizes and styles of shoe, and for all half-shoe uppers, of either the closed-vamp or Blucher type, the blank 1 will havesubstantially the form and outline shown, that is to say, the blank will be of an area whose length will be substantially that of the last plus the helght of the upper or upper-sides, and whose width will be substantially that of the last plus double the height of the upper,

or-upper-sides, and which will have in its length paralleling thetrend of the last a. cut or kerf 2 leading from the heel margin into the last or insole-area 8, shown by dotted lines in Fig. 1, and at the toe-margin an extension or'toe ear 4 alined, as shown, with the cut 2. In making custom-shoes, this general outline and form may vary, but in machine-made shoes the outline and form of the blank may be established for each pattern and size, so that the insole and upper or upper-sides may be lasted with little or no waste in trimming to fit and size, and for such purpose, the blank 1, preferably preliminary to lasting, is shaped attheedges or margins of its toe=portion as shown.

In Figs. 3 to 5, I show a shoe of the Blucher pattern of heavy type, such as a work-shoe or a boys school-shoe, wherein, for economy of labor and material, I dispense with both shoe-lining and shoecounter. For this type of shoe, I select preferably a blank 1 of relatively heavy stock, which I first properly 'mellow or soften. WVith the blank in smooth, opened, flat condition, a suitable last is placed thereupon, and I then draw the toe ear l -over the toe of the last, the sides 5 and 6 of the blank up around the sides and heel'of the-last,and the vamp-pieces 7 and 8 to'preferablyabut along a longitudinal median line over the top of'the last. The portion of the blank beneath the last or, in other words, that portion thereof indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 1, forms the insole of the shoe, and prior to the finishing of the lasting, I secure to and upon the outer face of said portion or insole 3, either by stitching or nailing. the outsole 9, and by reason of the heelkerf 2 and the open vamp, the attaching of the outsole 9 to the insole 3 may be conveniently and easily accomplished on a machine.

With the outsole so attached, the lasting of the upper portion of the blank is resumed, and the vamp-pieces '7 and 8 and the ear 4 are relatively secured, as by sutures 10 and 11, to complete or form the vamp, the ear 1 neatly fitting between the vamp-pieces 7 and 8 at the toe of the shoe, as seen particularly in Fig. 2.

To new form the Blucher pattern shown, I provide on each side of the blank a suitable lateral kerf, as at 1212, which kerfs divide the sides of the upper proper from the vamp, and I then stretch the sides 5 and 6 forwardly by pulling the same while the material of the blank is still mellow or soft,

such condition of the material readily permitting such steps with little likelihood of injury by tearing and the sides 5 and 6 being thus brought forwardly relatively to the vamp in a most convenient, economical manner, without wastage of material and without the employment of extra or additional pieces or material. After the sides of the upper have thus been shaped, I secure them to the vamp by sutures or the like, as at 13.

The heel-kerf 2 is now closed by stitching, as at 14:, and to finish the vamp, I employ a cap-piece 15, which is secured at its forward end between the extreme toe of the inner and outer soles, and preferably the cap-piece 15 is so attached along with the stitching or securing of the outsole 9 to the inner sole 3. The cap-piece is then stitched along both its side margins and substantially throughout its length to the vamp-pieces 7 and 8, as seen in Fig. 3.

A tongue 16 of usual form is stitched at its lower end to the upper ends of the vamppieces 7 and 8, and a top 17, made up of one or more pieces, as desired, secured by stitching or otherwise along the upper margins of the sides 5 and 6, as at 18, as seen espe cially in Figs. 3 and 5. The top 17, now forming a part of the upper of'the shoe,'is suitably finished by the addition of a suitable back or heel-strap 19 and along its front edges with suitable eyelets or the like 20 for accommodating the usual shoelace, the shoe as a whole being completed by a suitable heel 21 nailed or otherwise fixed as is usual to the outsole 9.

In Figs. 6 and 7, I show a shoe of the closed-vamp pattern similarly embodying my invention. In this pattern of shoe, the Blucher-forming kerfs 12 are omitted, so that the sides and vamp are not relatively movable, as in the Blucher pattern, the top 17 being stitched or otherwise fixed at its lower front portions, as at 22, over the vamp, as shown. In other respects, this pattern of shoe is substantially identical with the Blucher pattern of shoe before described and hence its parts are indicated by the same reference characters.

The simplicity and economy of my new method of shoe manufacture will be evident from the foregoing, and by the employment of my new method I am enabled to facilely provide at a reduced cost of production a shoe equally as attractive and comfortable as shoes manufactured according to present generally employed or standard methods.

It is to be understood that changes in the form, construction, arrangement, and combination of the several parts of the shoe and also in the several steps of its method of production may be made and substituted for those herein shown and describedwithout departing from the nature and principle of my invention.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. A shoe of the Blucher pattern comprising an insole, vamp, and upper-sides formed integrally of a single section of material kerfed inwardly from its opposite side edges to divide the vamp from the upper-sides, the upper-sides extending at their forward edges forwardly over, and being sutured to, the vamp.

2. A shoe of the Blucher pattern comprising an insole, vamp, and upper-sides formed integrally of a single section of ma terial having kerfs projecting inwardly from its opposite side edges dividing the vamp from the upper-sides, the upper-sides extending at their forward edges forwardly over, and being sutured only at the base of the kerfs to, the vamp.

3. A shoe of the Blucher pattern comprising an insole, vamp, and upper-sides formed integrally of a single section of material, the section being kerfed inwardly from its opposite side edges to divide the vamp from the upper-sides, the vamp consisting of parts'sutured along the median line of the shoe, and the upper-sides extending integrally at their forward edges forwardly over, and being sutured to, the vamp.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

JOSEPH ABRAMOWITZ. 

